Restaurant Profile The American Dream in an English Pub The Mucky Duck is transforming itself from a boisterous and sometimes rowdy source of night-life adventure into a friendly hang-out where people can get good drinks and good food at good prices -- with friendly service thrown in for free. November 2007

Sheila Madden

Eric Waddell used to be called "Nacho Boy" because of the deftness and speed with which he'd deliver the popular appetizer to hungry customers at the Rose And Crown Pub.

Now, Eric is called "The Boss," because this young board member of The Monterey Peninsula Chamber Of Commerce worked his way up from busboy to bartender to co-owning what is now called The Mucky Duck Restaurant/Pub on Alvarado Street in Monterey. Eric manages all aspects of the Mucky Duck but shares ownership with his father, John Waddell, a retired Los Angeles Police Officer. The Mucky Duck is well known on the Peninsula for its nightlife. In fact, it recently won a Business Excellence Award from the Monterey Chamber for just that. It also recently won several Monterey Coast Weekly Awards, including an award for being the Best Neighborhood Bar.

The pub has a Cheers sort of feeling going on, with Jean, affectionately known as "Mama Duck," tending bar and greeting regulars and strangers alike with her warm smile and authentic British greeting, "What will it be Luv?"

But Eric and his team want peninsula residents to know that they also have a very good restaurant and a friendly atmosphere that welcomes everyone.

It turns out that the Mucky Duck's mascot is a black swan. Black swans are extremely rare and, because they look like a duck in need of a bath, the English refer to them as mucky ducks.

According to English lore, black swans, provide good luck. In fact, the Queen herself is the official owner of all the black swans in England.

All of The Mucky Duck's neighboring buildings on one side were destroyed in the massive Alvarado Street fire. As I sat in a booth talking with Eric, he pointed out that the fire was stopped at the very wall we were sitting against. Perhaps the good luck of the black swan is more than lore.

Authentically English With Something For Everyone
Every decoration inside The Mucky Duck was shipped here from England 16 years ago by its original owners.

In true pub fashion, the restaurant offers a variety of seating arrangements and is decorated with horse brasses, leather-covered booths, a fire pit, antique books and, believe it or not, a room enclosed by five-hundred year old stained glass.

As with typical English pubs, The Mucky Duck is filled with talking, laughter, and music. It is a pulsating, robust, and dynamic facility.

Eric and his new chef, Troy Barnum, are very excited about the changes that they are making to the restaurant. Troy is a graduate of The New England Culinary Institute in Vermont. He left Roy's at Spanish Bay to join The Mucky Duck several months ago. He and Eric have collaborated on changes to the menu that add diversity in order to exert a broader appeal to Peninsula residents, while preserving classic pub fare.

They deliver high quality at moderate prices.

Mucky Duck prides itself on its fresh food. Chef Barnum butchers the meat daily, and cuts the fish himself. The chef is known to leave his kitchen in order to visit the Monterey Farmers Market on Tuesdays, as well as some local farms to search for the freshest ingredients available.

Chef Barnum's homemade Taquitos appetizers are a popular favorite. After trying them, I understand why. They are made with tender pork that has been marinated in his own chili sauce and served with Pico and sour cream.

Chef Barnum also offers tender Monterey Calamari, deep-fried and served with a cocktail sauce and chipotle aioli sauce. And for something both delicious and unusual, he provides fried pickles served with spicy brown mustard and ranch dressing.

Eric and Chef Barnum provided me with a wonderful sampling of their entrees, which included the Pub's signature Fish and Chips made with Sierra Nevada beer-battered Icelandic cod, deep fried to a golden brown. They were light and delicious!

We also tasted the traditional Beef Wellington made with filet of beef and a creamy mushroom duxelle, wrapped in a lightly seasoned puff pastry, served over a bed of creamy mashed potatoes, and covered in a red wine demi sauce.

My favorite was the perfectly seasoned and grilled filet mignon that was served atop a bed of heavenly shitake risotto and fresh locally grown blanched asparagus spears.

Serving sizes at the Mucky Duck are not for the faint of appetite. If you love to eat, Eric promises you three things: You will be pleased with the quality and quantity of food, the bill won't break your pocketbook, and you'll have a good time.

Anyone who enjoys single malt scotch will be delighted with The Mucky Duck's 28 choices, presented by region, including the Holy Grail of rare Single Malts, the 32-year aged Oban. In addition, Eric has a Reserve Scotch List which includes Johnnie Walker Blue.

The wine list offers good variety both in price and vintage. Along with our appetizers, Eric poured a Domaine Chandon Pinot Noir featuring rich flavors of plum, cherry, and Belgian chocolate. With the entrees he poured the Provenance Cabernet, which opened up beautifully and was rich in flavors of French vanilla ice cream with chocolate nuances.

Beer is the most popular drink at the pub, as you might imagine. The Mucky Duck has 27 beers on tap, Sierra Nevada is the most popular, except with the Europeans. Eric says that they usually prefer Budweiser. (Go figure!)

Events, Activities And Supporting The Community
Here are a few of the many events and activities at The Mucky Duck: Wednesday Night's 50% Off food and drinks for locals is one of the most popular. The idea evolved during a Monday manager's meeting when Eric and his team were brainstorming on ways to get people to the restaurant during the traditionally slow time between Christmas and New Years.

Even though the price is cut in half, all portions remain the same.

The Mucky Duck also hosts a monthly "Shindig" for Monterey business people. He brings in a local winery to pour and Chef Barnum makes an assortment of hors d'oeuvres and serves them butler-style.

In addition, a daily Happy Hour from 4-7 p.m. features well drinks at $2 and appetizers at 50% off.

Eric strongly believes in supporting the local community. Animal Friends Rescue Project, CASA Foundation, and La Mesa School are among the organizations for which he provides assistance.

A Hardworking Vision Of Growth
Witnessing the manner in which Eric and his team interact, it is clear that he is a natural leader, liked and respected, with a mutual respect for his team.

"We're a family," Eric said. "These guys are dear to me. We have our tiffs, but we work them out and always end up laughing together."

Eric has always worked in the hospitality industry. Locally he worked at Carmel Mission Inn and before buying the Mucky Duck was the national sales manager at the Portola Plaza Hotel.

I asked him how he has learned all that a restaurant owner needs to know. He credits previous bosses as well as being hands-on in the pub every day, listening to his customers and to his staff. He also consults his dad regularly.

"My dad has always been an inspiration to me," he said, "and has always been the one I call first when I need advice."

Developing talent is a critical leadership quality and one necessary for the sustained growth of any business. With all that they have on their plates, (pun intended) Eric and Chef Barnum make it a point to invest time in developing their staffs.

For example, the current manager, Sean, started out like Eric, as a bus boy. On the kitchen side of the house, Chef Barnum is loaning his culinary school texts and notebooks to a new cook so that he can learn and grow.

Quality, Consistency, and Comfort
I wasn't sure what to expect when I went in to the Mucky Duck. I'd never been there before but I can say with certainty that I'll be going back. There is heart and soul in the place. It's not a button-down, white tablecloth kind of dining experience, which admittedly is my usual preference. It's earthy, it's real, and it's interesting: A fun change of pace.

The other reason I'll return is because I'm impressed by the commitment and enthusiasm of Eric Waddell and Chef Barnum. I want them to succeed. They do embody the American dream. They are self-made men with a vision and the commitment to see it through. They are young, ambitious, hardworking and not naïve.

They know full well that they have an establishment with multiple facets that cater to very different customer groups, but that's the nature of a pub.

As far as the restaurant is concerned, the two of them will never be satisfied with anything less than offering patrons the experience of quality, consistency, and comfort.

The Mucky Duck atmosphere remains somewhat British, but becoming successful by grabbing an opportunity to do something fine is the quintessential American Dream.°

For more information call 831-655-3031, check out www.muckyduckmonterey.com/, or drop by 479 Alvarado Street, Monterey. Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m.